Tuesday, August 27, 2002

Subway Hike


August 27, 2002

Our group consisted of Gwen and Zac Rich, Annette Prescott, Jill Judd, Ed and Deb Kinsey, and Mark and Janene Walker, and our leader who had completed this hike many times before was Kent Page.  

We left one of our vehicles a the upper trail head and began our hike on a high plateau at 7000 ft. elevation.  This was going to be a bonding experience for Gwen and Zac.  After the Narrows like last year Gwen felt like she needed some “male’ support and help during this hike.  Zac volunteered to go, and Gwen really appreciated it.  What a great son !!

We headed east down a dirt path over a gentle partly wooded mesa. Our guide, Kent Page pointed out many things.  One of these, were trees that smelled like chocolate and vanilla, or was it just our imagination??? After a while we came to a broad expanse of white slick rock.  We hiked down this slickrock, angling to the right, and at the bottom of the slope, we again got on a trail that entered the brush and trees along side a small creek. This was supposed to be a pretty section with green ferns, but the because of the recent drought, most of the ferns were dead.  After several hundred yards, the trail emerged once again onto the slick rock and down to a creek crossing.  

We were now at 6300 ft. elevation.  We continued over the other side of the creek and crossed some rough rocky ground as we headed towards Russell Gulch.  The descent became steeper, and we finally reach the Russell Creek crossing at 5800 ft. elevation.  The scenery was spectacular, little did we know that it was only going to get better !!  There were the occasional strange rock formations, and some man-made ones called hoo-doos, which were trail markers.  

On the other side of Russell Creek, we climbed the red slickrock toward a bare rock saddle, and when we reached the saddle we could see a spectacular view south into a broad red slickrock bowl.  We continued into the bowl, heading south.  At this point the gulch was out of sight in gorge off to our right.  About 3.7 miles into the hike at about an elevation of 5600 ft. the trail quite suddenly arrived at a spectacular viewpoint high about the junction of Russell Gulch and the Left Fort of North Creek.  The view here is quite awesome; you can look both upstream and downstream into the canyon of Russell Creek.  It is hard to visualize how you will be able to make the descent into the canyon below you.  

Just a ways further, and to the right, Kent led us to the top of a steep and narrow gully by which to make the descent into the canyon.  In this gully we would drop 200 ft., arriving at the bottom beside a large pool.  This marked the start of a beautiful hike through the scenic and wondrously sculpted gorge of the Left Fork of North Creek, known through out the hiking world as “The Subway”.  

Climbing down this gully, was a lot like climbing down a ladder, not too hard, you just had to go slow and be careful.  Finally at the bottom, there was a stagnant pool of black water, but there was a path around it, and we didn’t have to go through it !!  In contrast to the reflected heat of the slick rock higher up, it is cool here in the canyon depths.  

We took our time, and took many pictures in this fantastic canyon.  Our first serious obstacle consisted of a large canyon blocking boulder forming a 15 foot drop.  We could have opted to go around one side and wade (swim?) through some gross water, but instead we climbed up on top of this huge rock, and squeezed down between the gap on the right between the boulder and the canyon wall.  Zac, Ed, and Kent went down first, into a cave like area, and Mark stayed up on top and braced his leg so that the women could hold on, and hang down to where the men down below could support their feet.  From there it was a short skip and jump across twigs and branches that were floating on top of the gross water.   

As we walked along the stream-bed there was no water, only sand.  A short distance further the canyon closed into a width of about 6 feet.  We arrived at a deep pool, that because of the drought was not kept fresh by running water, and was a BLACK, STAGNANT,  STINKY pool of what looked to be SEWER WATER., complete with floaties.  There was no way around this.  Some of wanted to lynch Kent Page at this point !!  Ed Kinsey was the first one into the water   As he eased into the pool, the black water closed around him and came up to his waist.  He took two steps, and it was almost up to his arm pits.  Another two steps…. And thank goodness it shallowed back out to waist height.  He continued on with his back pack high about his head, for another 30-40 feet, when this awful pool finally ended.  Thank goodness the water situation improved and FUTURE pools were much more clean and fresh !!  

Right after this horrible pool of black water, there was another pool that was much cleaner, and it was a good thing, because a short swim was required to get through it.  As we all tip-toed and swam through these two pools, little did we know that our adventure was only going to get MORE exciting.  

About a 100 yards further down the canyon we arrived at a more challenging and interest obstacle where the stream flowed through a very narrow slot only about 2-3 feet wide.  The water was initially only a few feet deep, however we quickly arrived a small two-stage waterfall by which the water falls into a small cavern with chest deep water.  Zac was the first one down – it was cold !!  Gwen descended next. With the help of Zac and Ed Kinsey.  The slot narrowed even more and at 18 inches wide there were some of us who were wondering it we were going to fit !!! But wait it gets better !!!  

We came up on two round boulders (about 1 ½ feet in diameter) jammed between the slot walls, one above the other.  This first one was about head height (6 ft.) and then there was a 6 inch space between it and the lower one which was wedged in about chest/waist height.  The water level in the canyon came up halfway on the bottom boulder.  Zac scrambled up onto the top boulder like any 21 years old male can, and perched there precariously with no room to spare.  A decision had to be made.  Did he haul the women up and over (breaking his neck and back in the process) or did we swim under the bottom boulder?  Gwen got panicked, and was afraid she would get stuck.  Janene Walker was the first brave soul.  She handed her backpack to Zac (on top), and then took a breath and went for it !! When She popped out on the other side, and she had to tread water as the canyon floor had dropped again, and the water was deep!!  She reached back under the bottom boulder half way, and grabbed Gwen’s hand,  1, 2, 3, and pulled her through.  One by one each of us took off our packs, handed them up to Zac, and then proceeded to take a breath and go under water to pass this obstacle.  It was scary, but exhilarating at the same time.  What an accomplishment !!! Mark Walker decided he didn’t want to get his HAIR wet, so he climbed up on the rock and jumped.  What he didn’t know (and we hadn’t told him) was the depth of the water had increased (remember?) and so he ended up dunking himself anyway!  After we all got past this obstacle were we wet and cold and proud.  

Downstream the canyon widened again, but the walls seemed to grow in height.  We stopped here to eat our lunch and bask in the sun, and try to warm up.  A little ways further the canyon narrowed to a slot again, and we arrived at Keystone Falls, easily recognized by a hole in the rock, just about the lip on the left.  There were bolts in the rock to anchor our rope to, and a large log, propped up against the falls.  We all shimmied down without any trouble, and with a little help from Zac.  

At this point we were at 5250 ft elevation.  As we continued on, the canyon walls narrowed and then widened, the height increased, and the overhangs and ledges characteristic of a subway appeared.  It continued this way for several hundred yards, until we arrived at another place where the stream dropped about 25 feet into a narrow slot in the canyon bottom as the canyon made a right turn. At this point, some of us maneuvered our way down the rock wall to a 10 ft. drop, where we either hung and dropped (the men), or were lowered by the men (the women).  Others that were really brave, were able to repel about 35 feet down a 45 degree slope until the last 10 feet, where it was straight up and down.  

After this repel we were in a short but magnificent section of “The Subway”.  We saw round pools filled, not with water, but with sand.  We had heard that the last flash flood through the canyon had been on July 24th and apparently there hadn’t been enough water since, to wash out the sand-filled pools.  As we hiked on, the canyon opened up into a more convention shape.    There were no more repels, steep waterfalls, or swimming underwater after this point, only scrambling over boulder fields.  

In the next half mile we walked along the stream bed through a series of beautiful and gentle cascades over red sandstone.  These falls looked slippery, and sometimes Gwen sat down to make sure she didn’t fall, but it was really pretty easy to walk down the water covered rocks.  The canyon bottom gradually became normal, and there was a trail along the right side of the creek.  There were a number of nice swimming holes that we got wet in – just to keep cool.  

This part of the hike seemed endless (at least to me).  Towards the end we saw some dinosaur tracks fossilized in the rocks.  We finally reached a small stream entering from the right, where we filled our bottles with purified water from the stream before we began our climb out of the canyon.  

The beginning of the climb out of the gorge was about 8.3 miles from the start of the hike, and at this point we were at 4700 ft. elevation.  The hike out was grueling for some of us, while others, seemed to scramble right out !!! (Mark, Janene, Ed, and Deb)  As we stood at the bottom of the canyon and looked up at the 400 ft. of mountain that we had to climb, (most of it looking like it was straight up) we didn’t think it could be done.  Putting one foot in front of the other, slowly but surely we began the climb out.  The group at the end (Jill, Annette, Gwen Zac and Kent) stopped about half-way up the mountain for about 30 minutes, to let Jill Judd’s dizzy spell pass.  The rest did Gwen and Annette good, and Zac and Kent were good sports about it.  

We finally reached the top of the canyon and it was a pretty flat hike back to the lower trail-head.  The first ones out the gorge, had already taken the car that was left there, and shuttled up and got the truck we had left early that morning.  All in all it was a 9 1 /2 mile hike, which took us 10 hours  (8:30 am to 6:30 pm.  We had a great time, and were sure glad we had our fearless leader, Kent Page along for guidance and expertise.  We MAYBE could have done it without him, but it would have taken much LONGER and wouldn’t have been nearly as fun.


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